Tradewinds Sailing Blog

We can all benefit from a lesson here.  The granddaughter of one of the boat owner’s provided him with a pre-cruise check list written from her perspective.

In case you are having problems reading it, here is the list.

• Warm coats
• Warm hats and gloves
• Coloring stuff
• Leap Pads (google it if you don’t know what it is)
• Snacks
• Sunscreen
• Life Jacket
• Camera

I love the original artwork for each item listed.  When you think about it, what more do you need for a fabulous day on the water?  It’s sailing season … get out there and enjoy it.

Here’s a docking maneuver that is simple to do and works great.  Use it when making a side tie docking on the leeward side of a dock that is to the same side as your prop walk.

Rig a line from the bow cleat to the waist cleat (the technical term for the cleat located approximately amidships).  The line should be on the same side as prop walk and have enough slack to easily go around a cleat on the dock.

Approach the dock at an angle (30 to 45 degrees works).  Stop the boat within a foot or two of the dock with the bow line handler right next to a dock cleat.  The line handler then uses the tip of a boat hook to loop the line around the dock cleat.  Relax and take your time.  If the boat starts to drift away while getting the line on, just put the transmission in forward (with the wheel turned to the dock) briefly.

Once the line is around the dock cleat go into reverse at a low RPM to remove slack from the line.  When all slack is gone prop walk will begin pulling the boat towards the dock.  Be patient and take your time.  It’s best if you can do this maneuver at idle speed.  As long as the stern is moving slowly to the dock you don’t need more throttle.

There are few “universals” in the sailing world, however, one thing that comes close is the tendency of new sailors to over trim sails.  There are a number of results to over trimmed sails.  For example, sail shape isn’t as effective, causing the boat to slow down and heal more, which by the way results in an even great loss of speed.  In other words, a boat with properly trimmed sails goes faster.  Today’s discussion focus’s on another aspect of over trimming, the creation and/or increase of weather helm.

Weather helm is the tendency of the boat to turn towards the wind, and is a good thing.  Boat builders design in a small amount of weather helm to give the helmsperson some “feel” of what is happening and for safety.  If you let go of the wheel the boat should turn to windward and come to a stop.  Too much weather helm is not good, making the boat difficult to steer.  To more fully understand why this is requires a discussion of Center of Effort and Center of Lateral Resistance.

Center of Lateral Resistance (CLR) is the “balance point” of the boat.  If you push forward of the CLR the bow moves away.  If you push aft of the CLR the stern moves away.  Visualize a teeter totter.  The pivot point in the center is the CLR.  More weight (effort) on one end results in that end going down.  The Center of Effort (CE) is like the weight pushing.  CLR is moved by shifting weight forward or aft, or by healing more or less.  CE is more easily controlled.   Each sail has it’s own CE, located at the geometric center of the sail.  The overall CE for the sail plan moves along a line drawn between the CE of the main and the CE of the jib.

Here is a real life example of how CLR and CE interact with each other.  You are sailing along nicely in 10 knots.  The CLR is a bit forward of the CE (by design) allowing you to feel the rudder, but not feeling like the boat wants to turn into the wind.  As the wind builds the boat heals more, moving the CLR forward.  The result is more “push” from the wind, further aft of that CLR pivot point.  The boat now wants to force itself into the wind.  If you have ever wondered what a traveler does … “dropping” it down moves the CE forward, closer to the CLR allowing you to regain control.  If that’s not enough, putting in a reef moves the CE forward even more.

Now comes the fun part!  The trim relationship between the main and the jib can actually move the CE whichever direction you want, forward or aft.  Properly trimmed, the boat goes pretty much in a straight line.  Trim the main and ease the jib and the CE moves aft, causing the boat to head up.  Ease the main and trim the jib to move the CE forward.  Move the CE far enough forward and the boat will bear away.  Give it a try.  It is amazing how much steering control you have using just the trim of the sails.

It seems like we’ve totally skipped the question in the title of this tip.  Why can’t I bear away from the wind?  That was a question asked of me recently by a club member.  By now you may have figured out the answer.  The CE is too far back, creating so much weather helm that you can not overcome it with the rudder.  The fastest and easiest solution … ease the main.  The boat will turn downwind easily, and the sails will be better trimmed for the new point of sail.

Quite often I am asked what skills should be taught to a non-sailor before leaving the dock for their first sail.  I am sure each skipper has a different list, however, here are a few of the things I personally consider essential.  Its seems like quite a list, however it only takes about 15 or 20 minutes to run through it.

• Marine Heads 101 … not the most glamorous topic, however, messing up the head can ruin a sail.  I teach how to use fresh water to fill and flush the bowl.  I also instruct that “If it didn’t go thru you first, it doesn’t belong in the head.”  That includes toilet paper, which gets deposited in the waste basket next to the head.  While on the topic of heads, I am a guy, however, I hate cleaning up after guys!  Here’s a little jingle for you.  While at sea, all good sailors sit to pee!
• Line handling … Some basic line handling makes for a safer sail.  Make sure everyone knows how to double up a line so it runs from the boat, around a cleat on the dock, and back to the boat.  Demonstrate how to use a boat hook to capture a dock cleat, and how to “cast” a coiled line around a dock cleat.  Finally, demonstrate how to use friction by going around both horns of the boat’s deck cleat to control motion of the boat.  How about one more line handling tip.  Making figure 8’s around a cleat.  I think teaching a cleat hitch is asking too much of someone’s first sailing experience, and in most cases, several figure 8’s around the cleat does just as well as a temporary solution.
• One hand for yourself and one for the boat … Always hold on to something sturdy while moving around.  Don’t stand up while reaching for lines or while the boat is maneuvering in close quarters (e.g. slips and fairways).  Kneel down instead, it’s much safer.
• How to use a winch.
• DO NOT jump in the water after someone (even your child)!!!  If you do, now we have two rescues to make.
• Basic motoring … Part of this will be completed after we leave the dock and reach safe water.  I want my guests to be able to get the boat back to me if I go overboard.  I also want them to be able to drive if I am otherwise occupied (such as handling sails, reefing, or using the head).  They need to know how to start and stop the motor.  How to shift the transmission and handle the throttle, and how to steer.
• And last, but certainly not least … “The boat will NOT tip over.”  It is normal and safe to be healed over.

With VHF radios as common as they are, you don’t hear sound signals on boats very much anymore.  When you do hear one, it always seems to come as a shock, and sadly, it’s far to easy to have no clue as to what the boat issuing the signal is trying to say.  For example, you are sailing along the San Francisco city front, approaching the Bay Bridge, and you hear a vessel sound a single prolonged blast (four to six seconds) followed by three short blasts (one second) what is going on?  Easy … the single prolonged blast in this case means “I’m leaving the dock.”  Three short blasts means using astern propulsion.  In other words, the boat, most likely a ferry, is backing away from the dock.  Where would you be if you hear a prolonged blast followed by a single short blast?  Probably in the vicinity of a draw bridge (yes, there are still a few on the bay … next to ATT Park is an example).  One prolonged followed by one short is the official request to open the bridge.

Here are a few more examples taken from the Inland Waters sections of the Navigation Rules.  Yes, I know that in international waters the meaning might be a bit different, however, we are generally in the bay which is considered inland waters, so lets go with those signals for now.

• A single short blast means “I plan to leave you on my port side” (only applies when both vessels are power-driven).  This signal should be responded to with the same signal if in agreement or five short blasts if not in agreement.
• Two short blasts means “I plan to leave you on my starboard side” (only applies when both vessels are power-driven).  This signal should be responded to with the same signal if in agreement or five short blasts if not in agreement.
• Three short blasts means “I am operating astern propulsion.”  This doesn’t necessarily mean backing up, it could mean using reverse to bring the vessel to a stop.
• Five or more short (or rapid) blasts indicates disagreement or danger.  It means “I don’t understand your intentions or actions!”
• Once in awhile you might hear a single blast that never seems to end.  It’s not a recognized sound signal, however the meaning pretty much comes through.  Please don’t use it, but if you hear it, it means “If you don’t get out of the way you are going to get run down by a very big boat!”
• In good visibility, a single prolonged blast means either … leaving the dock, or rounding a bend in a channel or fairway where visibility is obscured.
• In limited visibility, a single prolonged blast repeated at intervals of no more than two minutes is the signal made by a power-driven vessel making way.  A sailing vessel, a vessel restricted in her ability to maneuver, a fishing vessel, a vessel not under command, or a vessel towing (or pushing) will sound the same signal, followed by two short blasts, at the same interval.
• The same signal might have a different meaning when used in different context.  Remember that prolonged blast followed by three short blasts.  In restricted visibility it’s the signal made by a vessel being towed, and should be made soon after the towing vessel signals with a prolonged and two shorts.

While on the topic of sound signals, here is another “pet peeve.”  You know the pump up sound signals on all of Tradewinds boats?  They are totally useless unless the air bottle (signal) and the pump are together … at all times!!!

One last thing.  VHF radios have pretty much replaced the use of sound signals in most circumstances.  On the bay, channel 13 is reserved for radio traffic from one ship’s bridge to another.  It doesn’t happen often however, occasionally I will hail large vessel traffic in a narrow channel to let them know my intentions before they get nervous.  If you decide to do so, remember that you are on a “recorded line.” Follow radio etiquette and be professional.

Summer is here!!  I know, the first day of summer is officially June 21, and we aren’t there yet, however, this week the San Francisco summer weather pattern seems to have established itself over the bay.  Here are few tips to help you enjoy your summer time sailing.

Watch the water.  When you begin to see white caps, consider putting in a reef.  At this point the wind speed is probably 12 to 15 knots.  You may not need a reef, however, it’s easy to put in.  Another 5 knots of wind speed and it’s not so easily done.  I have never regretted the decision to reef.  I have regretted deciding not to on more than one occasion.  I like to roll my jib up about a third when I put the first reef in the main.

Feel the helm.  If you notice the boat wanting to force itself up into the wind (heading up), you either have the sails over trimmed or you have too much sail and need a reef.  If you have a reef in and the boat still wants to head up it’s time for a second reef.  Definitely consider rolling the jib in another third when the second reef goes in.

Sail to the comfort level of the least comfortable person an board.  Reefing early, often, and deep is a great way to keep the boat “flat.”  If you are looking for an enjoyable day sail, “flat” is typically what you want.  If you have any non-sailors or what I call “heeling timid sailors” on board, they will not enjoy seeing the rail in the water and waves crashing over the bow!  My wife used to be that way.  Anything more than about 15 degrees of heel and my wife’s heel alarm would go off … “Don! That’s enough of that!”  Over time she has gotten much more comfortable.  The last time we went out, we had a great close reach to San Francisco followed by a outstanding beam reach all the way back.  The toe rail was buried in the water the entire way and she had a great time.  All because we took it easy when she was first learning to enjoy this great sport.

It’s cold out there.  Speaking of comfort.  The wind San Francisco Bay is famous for comes straight off the cold waters of the Pacific.  It gets very cold, especially when the wind is accompanied by fog or the marine layer.  Dress in layers.  Wool “watch caps” and warm gloves help a lot.  Bring blankets.

Stop and smell the roses.  I’m talking about the rose in the centerpiece of the cockpit table.  Try this sometime.  Find a spot where you are sheltered from the wind, out of the traffic channels, with lot’s of room to leeward.  Then heave to or put out an anchor.  Bring out the rose centerpiece, wine, cheese, salami, and crackers and enjoy the fellowship of good friends in one of the most beautiful places in the world!  Some quick notes about heaving to.  You are still legally underway.  If you heave to on a starboard tack you retain right of way.  If you are going to heave to for more than a minute or two, douse the mainsail.  Leaving it up is noisy and the luffing isn’t good for it.

One final tip … go sailing … often!

I’ve never had an opportunity to re-visit a topic this quickly, however I think a second visit might be needed in this case!  In the last one week, two different people I know have ended up in the water.  One at a dock and one at a mooring ball!  Fortunately, the only injuries incurred were to the pride of those involved.  Sadly, in both cases taking basic safety precautions would have prevented a cold, wet experience.

Case number 1 … while docking at Sam’s, the bow line handler got a little too enthusiastic in pulling the bow to the dock, pulling the stern line handler into the water between the boat and the dock.

Lesson 1 … you can not stop a moving 15,000 pound boat by hand.  You need some help in the form of friction.  Get a line around both sides of a cleat and you can stop the boat with two fingers.

Case number 2 … while picking up a mooring ball at Ayala Cove, the crew member attempting to get a line through the mooring ring leaned too far out, got off balance and fell in.

Lesson 2 … Even in calm water, a boat rocks, rolls, and in general moves a lot.  Do not lean out!  Trying to save a less than good maneuver often ends badly.

Lesson 3 … Kneel instead of standing.  It’s much more stable.

I personally believe all crew should remain inside the cockpit until two dock lines are secured.  As the skipper of a vessel, I enforce that rule unless conditions absolutely require otherwise, which is very rare.  The helmsperson should bring the crewmember to the cleat.  Crew should not need to go to the cleat.  Crew should always kneel while handling lines … especially during those rare occasions that require crew outside of the cockpit.  Finally, never forget – one hand for yourself and one hand for the boat!

All of these techniques are covered in the Advanced Docking (ASA 118) class.  I highly recommend taking the class.  If you have already taken it, take it again.