Sailing to a specific time schedule can be dangerous. Trying to “get there” at a specific time, or wanting to trim 20 minutes off your sailing ETA may create a situation where you put yourself at risk.
While returning from Drakes Bay during a recent Advanced Coastal Cruising class I made the decision to go through Bonita Channel to get home. We had been out for three days, and I was really looking forward to getting home as quickly as possible. Bonita Channel is a one third mile wide alternative to the main ship channel as a means of getting through the San Francisco Bar. It runs between Potato Patch (Fourfathom Bank) and the shoreline of Point Bonita. During mild conditions it cuts quite a bit of time off the trip into the bay from the north.
The decision to use Bonita Channel was based on conditions as we approached. We had 3 to 4 foot swells with a very long period. In other words, it was quite calm, so we made the turn towards the channel. The approach to the channel is like a continuously narrowing funnel of deeper water between two areas of shallower water. During the 20 minutes following our turn into the approach, I watched the swells build from 3 and 4 feet up to 7 and 8 feet. The shallow water to the sides was causing the swell to hump up making me a bit nervous, so 20 minutes into the approach I changed my mind and back tracked to use the main ship channel. Of course, during the next hour I questioned my decision, thinking to myself that going through Bonita Channel would have cut 3 miles off my trip and would have been perfectly safe.
When we reached the point where Bonita Channel joins the main ship channel, I checked out the conditions we would have been greeted by had we gone that way. At a distance of 1/2 to 1 mile, it’s hard to judge height, however, I would estimate there were 3 foot breakers rolling across the channel for most of it’s length. Being hit on the beam by 3 foot breaking waves for a mile isn’t my idea of a fun time. In this case, the correct decision was made!
Sailing on San Francisco Bay involves a constant series of choices like the one above. Choices like: I’m not going to do a complete checkout of the boat because I’m running late and there is never a problem; or, the shortest route takes me through those small kids on dinghies and I don’t really want to take the time to go around; or, following the west side of the channel is faster, but the east side keeps me clear of the tug harbor and the marina exit; or, I think I can make it in front of that tug pulling a barge and I’ll be late if I give way and go behind. Don’t fall into these traps. Be willing to make the best decision based on circumstances and be willing to revise choices mid sail as changing circumstances require.
Someone asked me once where I get the ideas for the skipper’s tips. My answer was, “watching the docks.” If you watch, it doesn’t take long to see something tip worthy. On any Saturday you will see at least one instance were someone has to fend of from the dock, another boat, or a concrete post. Generally body parts are used for the purpose. Once in awhile a boat hook will be placed into service. Neither is a good idea. Body parts break and boat hooks are not at all secure. Here is a better way!
Part of the Tradewinds pre-cruise check list is to verify the location and number of fenders. Don’t check that item off the list until you have placed one fender “at the ready.” What’s that mean? Remove it from the lazarette or untie it from the stern pulpit so that it can be placed into service as a roving fender without delay. Never depart a slip, begin a docking, or operate in close quarters without having a fender ready to fend off in the event of a mishap. I assure you, sooner of later you are going to need it!
Kind of a strange way to start a conversation, however, that’s just what happened the other day.
It seems a club member was missing. He had left the house the previous morning for a day sail. He called in that afternoon indicating they were having some engine problems, his cellphone was almost dead, and he would be calling the Coast Guard. That was the last she had heard and his phone was going straight to voice mail. Needless to say, she was quite worried. To compound the problem, she did not know who he was sailing with, where they were sailing from, the name of the boat, or their destination. She had no idea where to even start so she called the Coast Guard and Tradewinds hoping we could tell her what was going on. We couldn’t tell her (or the Coast Guard officer who called later), because he wasn’t on one of our boats.
In this case, there was a happy ending. He was sailing with a friend on a boat that isn’t part of the Tradewinds fleet. The boat did have motor problems, however, they were able to make it to a marina where they spent the night. The boat was repaired the following day and they make it back to their home marina. Unfortunately, because his cell phone was dead he wasn’t able to contact her with an update.
Much of her concern would have been eliminated had he filed a float plan with her before leaving. If you aren’t sure what information is required, there is a great example of a float plan on the Tradewinds website. It can be completed online, saved as a PDF file, and left where a concerned person can find it.
During the Advanced Coastal Cruising class, a float plan is required. Anytime a Tradewinds boat goes outside the gate, a float plan is required. Tradewinds does not require a float plan in any other circumstances, however, common sense does. Never leave the dock without filing a plan with your loved ones. At a minimum, include the following information:
Vessel name and description
Skipper’s name and contact info (including the skipper’s emergency contact person and contact info is also a great idea)
Crew members names and contact info
When are you leaving
Where are you going
Planned stops along the way
When will you return
Any backup plans you might have
One more thought. I know where I am and that everything is OK … my loved ones don’t, so any time I leave the dock, I have in my possession a satellite based GPS tracking tool. I can use it to check in when out of cell phone range. With it, I’m able to send a simple message to let my wife know I’m OK, and what my exact Latitude and Longitude are. Using it has greatly reduced my wife’s worry when I am out enjoying this great sport.
Note from Matt: Here is a link to a fillable .pdf float plan from the USCG Auxiliary: http://floatplancentral.cgaux.org – along with instructions! Fill it out, download the completed document, and email it to someone who will want to know your whereabouts if you are late!
I recently received an email question from a member who was planning on taking guests out over night during a cold spell. The Q&A seemed blog worthy, so here it is with minor editing to protect the guilty!
Hi Matt,
I am taking Aquamarine for an overnight this weekend with another couple. They just emailed me to ask me what the heating situation will be (an apt question, given the below-freezing temperature expected). My response was – warm clothes, warm covers, and someone to snuggle.
But that got me thinking – does Tradewinds have a recommendation on boat heating? What I have in mind, in particular, is a technique that a friend uses – **edited out so as not to give anyone a bad idea**. “A” for creativity, but highly suspect when it comes to safety or effectiveness.
What would be your recommendation?
I.
Hello I.,
One of our boats actually has a diesel heater, so it is an option when you have your own boat as well.
Electric heaters will work fine if you are overnight at a dock with AC power available, and we have heaters available to check out in locker #1 behind the office. Don’t try it on the boat’s inverter, however – only if you are actually plugged into shore power! Also be careful where you place them, I’ve seen damaged wood and upholstery.
As far as using propane on the boat (stove, oven), there are multiple reasons I would not be a fan. One is safety. Another is that we don’t charge members for propane, we just take the tanks and fill them. If I learned people were using the stoves as heaters, I’d probably have to implement a way to do that.
On the safety side, propane is heavier than air. Never leave it on without someone watching it. If there is a leak, or if the flame goes out with the burner on, it will fill the boat from the bottom up. Sleeping people will breathe it and die, and if anything should spark (automatic bilge pump coming on), boom!
Warm clothes and sleeping bags is the best bet. I wouldn’t be opposed to a small camping heater with its own small propane supply, I think Coleman makes something like that. Of course it should only be on when people are awake, and you have to careful where you place it so the heat doesn’t damage varnished wood or cloth surfaces, etc.
I think you’ll also find that a closed boat with 4 people on board warms up pretty well. By early morning, you may be cracking your cabin window to get some cool air.
Matt, My partner Dena and I took courses at Tradewinds this past summer, to prepare for a bareboat charter in Greece in September. Dena took the Basic Keelboat to increase her comfort level as first mate. I took exams for BKB, Coastal Cruising and Bareboat, in addition to a day on the water to challenge in for Bareboat, to get my international proficiency certificate. If you would like to post our photos and a brief story, here is my submission:
Lee and Dena
Lee Jones and Dena King enjoyed a week long bareboat charter with The Moorings out of Lefkas, Greece in September, thanks in part to courses taken at Tradewinds this past summer. Dena thanks Steve Damm for getting her through Basic Keelboat , where her days on the Bay in 20+ knots in Capri 22’s more than prepared her for the Ionian Sea on a Beneteau 43. Lee thanks Tony Medunic for the practice Med mooring approaches in the Richmond inner harbor in 22 knots of wind, where maneuvering astern in tight quarters is a daily event in Greek sailing. The Ionian Sea offers short passages between the islands of Lefkada, Ithaca, Kefalonia and others, with many small harbor towns offering great food and entertainment ashore
Thanks to Steve, Tony and your staff for providing great sailing experiences that helped us make this sailing trip a fun adventure in the Mediterranean.
Had a great day sailing on Wind Song on Sunday. Setting out from the dock, we knew we would be putting in the 2nd reef right away due to the projected gusty winds.
As we reviewed the running rigging, the 2nd reef sheet was not fed through the clutch so we wouldn’t be able to secure it – the port winch would be taken by the mainsheet.
We tried to fit the reef sheet through it’s clutch, but it was too large to feed through so we found a thinner sheet and fed it forward though the clutch to a point forward on the cabin top.
We reefed in the 2nd reef, and then secured the thinner sheet around the reef sheet with a rolling hitch (our memory refreshed via the ASA app on my iphone) and then tightened and clutched the thinner sheet.
It worked like a charm and we had a blast sailing in 25+ gusts around the GG bridge and back thru the slot.
I am always amazed at how often a small error committed on a sailboat results in major difficulties.
Correct Lead
Incorrect Lead – The Dock Line May Jam!
A couple of weeks ago, while crewing for another skipper, I was assigned the task of releasing the bow line in preparation for departure. Unfortunately, the cleat hitch had been set up incorrectly. Instead of leading the line to the shoulder of the cleat furthest from the origination of the line, the hitch was put on from the closest shoulder. It was then wrapped all the way around the cleat before the “crossing” turns were put on. The net result was two lines trying to occupy the same limited space under the cleat and jamming against one another. The line was jammed so badly the line needed to be cut to release it. In this case, not a major difficulty, just an expensive dock line needing replacement. What would the result have been if that line needed to be released in a hurry because of an emergency?
About two in the morning, while on a broad reach in 25-30 knots of wind, a jib sheet pulled itself out of the self tailing jaws, unwound itself from the winch and went flying, right through the jib track fair lead, stopper knot and all, and into a nasty tangle at the clew of the jib. We were not able to untangle the mess at night on a pitching deck. Fortunately, we were able to furl the jib and sail the rest of the way to Monterey on mainsail alone. The crew member responsible learned a valuable lesson that day. Two wraps on a winch are not enough on any boat bigger than 25 feet! We were on a 43 foot boat with winches designed for four wraps. Anything less was dangerous! As I reflect on that incident, I realize how lucky we were. The sheet went straight forward. It could easily have whipped across the cockpit instead.
Ever seen what happens if you let go of a steering wheel while going astern? Broken steering cables, steering quadrants torn from their mounts, and rudder posts broken loose from the rudder are all possible results. All problems that are major and easily prevented by keeping one hand on the wheel at all times.
This one caught me by surprise. Actually, it’s not one, it was three! Three times in the past two weeks the shore power on a Tradewinds boat has been plugged in incorrectly. Two of them the same day! This picture captures the result of those two. Apparently, instead of being plugged in properly, the plug was rotated one third of the way around and “forced” into the socket. In each case, the “Reverse Polarity” light was lit, indicating a problem, and in each case it was either not seen or ignored. Fortunately, the problem was found before the boats caught fire, however, as you can see, it wasn’t far from happening. The right way begins with disconnecting properly. Start by locating the boat’s Reverse Polarity light. If there is one, it should be near the AC Main switch. Turn off the boat’s AC Main switch. Turn off the AC power at the dock box. It is now safe to disconnect the shore power cord. To connect to shore power reverse the above sequence. Plug the shore power cord into the boat (and the shore power box if needed). Both AC switches, boat and shore, must be in the off position while these connections are made. Turn on the switch at the shore power box. Last, turn on the boat’s AC Main switch. As you do so, make sure the Reverse Polarity light does not light up. If it does, immediately turn the boat AC Main switch off and recheck all connections. If the problem continues, DO NOT hook up to shore power, and notify the Tradewinds staff immediately.
When I first started at Tradewinds I wondered why, and maybe was a bit irritated by how anal the instructors were about the little things that couldn’t possibly be that big of deal. Now I understand. Attention to detail on the little things can and does save lives and equipment.
A few days ago I spent the night on my boat, waking at six in the morning to the smell of baking bread. There are very few aromas in the world that smell better! All I could do was get up, make a hot cup of tea, smell the baking bread, and enjoy the sunrise.
Speaking of tea. A little over a year ago I spent some time in Victoria, British Columbia. I came away with an appreciation for fresh tea. Not the stale tea bags you see in the grocery store. I’m talking fresh, loose leaf teas found in specialty tea shops. Since then, I have acquired some favorites. Step on my boat and one of the things you are bound to notice is the selection of teas for various occasions. My favorite for everyday use is Keemun, a smooth, rich black tea from China. For something a bit different try Lapsang Souchong, a very smokey black tea reminiscent of a camp fire in a pine forest. How about a nice Chocolate Mint tea. Add a bit of honey and enjoy. Then, there are the green teas with names like Dragon Well and Jasmine Pearls, an interesting tea that is dried with layers of jasmine petals. Add some hot water and the aroma of jasmine fills the room. Whichever is your favorite, enjoy it with a good story.
While on the subject of good stories, a friend recently mentioned he has gotten into reading the novels and short stories of Jack London. At the time, I wasn’t aware that Jack London was quite a sailor, and wrote a number of stories about sailing on San Francisco Bay. I have to admit that I am now hooked. A great story to start with is “Small-Boat Sailing”. As an added benefit, all of Jack London’s works are available online for free. I personally added them to my Kindle library and am working my way through them on lazy days.
So, what does all this have to do with sailing and skipper’s tips. The only time you can smell bread baking in Marina Bay is when the wind is out of the North or North West. There is a bakery about a mile away, and if the wind is just right the smell of warm bread comes wafting through the marina. Wind from the North is the first sign winter is approaching! I personally take that first North wind as the sign to start paying a bit more attention to those Small Craft Advisories San Francisco is famous for. During the summer, a Small Craft Advisory is the sign of a great day of sailing. During the winter, a Small Craft Advisory is accompanied by shifting, gusting winds, and often storms. Always treat a Small Craft Advisory in the winter with respect. When you see one, maybe you should put some breakfast rolls in the oven, grab a hot cup of tea and a good Jack London story and enjoy the day at home instead of on the water.
Here’s a quick tip for you. If you want to keep your sailing skills fresh, take out a Capri once in a while.
First, it’s amazing how much feedback you get on a small boat with a tiller. Second, some maneuvers that might be a bit challenging to practice on a larger boat can easily be perfected on a smaller boat. Two examples include anchoring under sail and sailing into a side tie (make sure to fender up).
Med moored with the fleet in Komiža, island of Vis.
CRUISING CROATIA – Peggy Droesch
It’s been four years since our last charter: Rory and I were overdue for another. We were already going to be in Italy with our old sailing buddies Craig & France, so scheduling a charter in Croatia was an intriguing add-on. In the last decade of the 20th century the Yugoslav wars, including the Croatian War of Independence, shattered this coast into half a dozen independent states. None of us have ever visited a country living so close to the aftermath of war; it will be interesting to see how the people and the places have recovered twenty years on.
The Moorings base is in the village of Marina, 30 km west of the old Dalmatian city of Split. An overnight ferry from Italy got us to Split early on the morning our charter was to start. Most charterers arrive at the airport a few km away from the base, but Moorings arranged a shuttle to pick us up from the ferry terminal. Now, about provisioning…
For our last charter in Belize, we used the full-provisioning plan (3 meals a day for 7 days, times 4 people, equals 84 servings), which was less than ideal. First of all, their US-centric menus often have little or no basis in cruiser reality (somebody thinks I’m going to fire the oven for an hour in high summer, on a boat with no AC? Get a grip). More to the point, it was way more food than we could eat, so much so that we ended up giving about a third of it away to a local family. Charitable giving is a good thing & I am all for it, but seriously?! I was determined to do the provisioning myself and buy only what we needed.
From what we had read about cruising in Croatia, it was clear that dining out was going to be the order of the day for most of our lunches and dinners. So, after poring over the Moorings provisions lists and browsing their online market, I settled on a personalized plan. Have them deliver the basics: breakfast foods (eggs, bacon, muesli); condiments; a few snacks; the starting point for a couple of simple dinners (rice, pasta); and the heavy stuff (drinking water, beer, wine). Then, hit up a market for fresh food, and embrace the notion of eating like a local!
Armed with a list and a few shopping bags, France and I headed off to the market across the street while the guys did the captain’s briefing. In a small park nearby was a produce stand, so we took a good look at what they had before going into the market. Inside, we bought fresh chicken, Dalmatian ham and prosciutto, local cheeses, yogurt, breads, crackers and a jar of something that might be pasta sauce, except I don’t know enough Croatian to read the label; but the picture looks promising, it’ll be fun to find out what it is! On our way back to the boat, the produce stand: tomatoes, garlic, grapes, cucumbers, melons, peaches, lemons, limes…
This worked very well. In every town we stopped, there were plenty of shops nearby to pick up whatever else we might need; and finding a café on the waterfront for coffee and pastries became an early-morning habit. It was especially fun to browse through farmer’s markets and bakeries; and the tiny brick-&-mortar markets (Studenac and Tommy Market were two chains we learned to look for) were always an education.
A stall at the farmer’s market in Stari Grad.
The only real fail on my provisions list was drinking water. I ordered what Moorings considered “essential” for 4 people (a dozen 1.5-liter bottles), but it was nowhere near enough in the heat of July — we bought another 24 bottles over the course of the week. [Before you ask, the water in the tanks waspotable. Nominally.] And of course, the one case of Karlovačko beer that I ordered wasn’t going to last more than a day or two; but it was just as much fun to see what local brew was on offer at each town! I honestly regretted ordering more than a bottle or two of wine from the charter company, because vineyards are everywhere in Croatia: the big islands we stopped at had at least one winery within motor scooter distance, whose wares you could sample and buy; and every town had at least one good wine shop.
Our boat Carina was a Beneteau 42.3, double helm, 3 cabin, 2 head, rated for up to 8 people. Comfortable for 4 adults and maybe a couple of kids, but I can’t imagine trying to cram any more bodies onboard than that! On Carina, the portside aft cabin was for stowage: 4 sets of luggage, unneeded clothes, cases of water, cases of beer. Craig and France got the vee berth because it’s got more room to move around in and better ventilation. Plus, it’s a better cabin to be in if you like to sleep in — you’re all the way forward, so the early risers can rattle around the saloon or the cockpit without bothering you any more than necessary. Rory and I, early risers both, took the starboard aft cabin that connects directly to the larger of the two heads. A little cramped & stuffy, but we can live with it for a week, and how much time are we going to spend below decks anyway?
Day 1: Marina to Solinska Bay, Drvenik Veli: 43° 26′ 7.32″ N, 16° 8′ 52.04″ E
One of the departing charterers told us about a great spot for the first night’s anchorage: protected bays, you can get a good set on the hook well before sundown, take a dip and relax… the island of Drvenik Veli. Once out of the deep inlet that Marina is nestled into, a lovely beam-reach sail to get there; and Solinska Bay was everything he claimed and more. I found it hard to believe that the Adriatic Sea could be as warm as the Caribbean — it is at least 20 degrees of latitude farther north, after all — but it’s as warm as any place in the tropics that we have ever been. Swimming in this balmy clear water is sheer heaven. And the hills around us are fascinating: covered with an endless web of ancient dry stone walls enclosing — what? Grapevines and olive trees? Livestock? Or were they built just to get all those rocks out of the way? All of the above, probably. A staggering amount of work by a long-dead people, before our very eyes…
Solinska Bay, Drvenik Veli.
There were a handful of boats already anchored for the night, so we dropped the hook a reasonable distance away. Our nearest neighbor was a German flagged boat, with a crew who, like many Germans, were very comfortable in their own skin. Which is to say, they liked to hang out in the buff. So we took to calling everything we did without benefit of clothing, German fill-in-the-blank. “Hey guys! nice deserted cove, time for some German swimming!” “Eyes forward, I’m going to take a German shower off the transom!” A sly wink at my heritage! Our only other close company was a fishing family who tended nets in their skiff, well into the evening and at first light too.
Day 2: Drvenik Veli to Vela Travna, island of Vis: 43° 1′ 10.04″ N, 16° 10′ 42.25″ E
Very light air & a long way to go: we leave at dawn. We stopped at the town of Vis on the north side of the island long enough to have a late lunch and pick up a few things at the market; but elected to look for an overnight anchorage on the sparsely-populated southern shore. Vela Travna is a tiny bay, whose equally tiny settlement has the distinction of housing a restaurant run by a well-known local author. [Even famous authors need a sideline.] No swinging room in this narrow place, so we had to set a stern line on shore. Which in practice meant, load the dink with our secondary anchor, clamber up a jagged wall of rock and find a place to drop the Danforth so that it will dig in behind a ledge and hold all night.
I wasn’t hungry — my shrimp salad at lunch was huge — so I decided to stay on board and keep an eye on the stern line while the rest of the crew went ashore for dinner. In spite of the bobbing and weaving normal to an anchorage at sunset, it is holding fast; we’ll sleep soundly tonight.
Vela Travna, island of Vis.
Days 3 & 4: the quay at Komiža, island of Vis: 43° 2′ 39.45″ N, 16° 5′ 13.33″ E
Oh brother, here it comes: the dreaded Med moor. Craig and France had taken an advanced anchoring class before a charter in Greece, and we all knew the technique in theory: circle the harbor, choose your spot, drop the hook and set it, power in reverse to the quay, tie off your stern lines, snug up the bow and you’re in. But knowing what kind of crowds we would be dealing with in high summer (most of whom have more experience Med-mooring than we do) had me, at least, a little nervous: should we practice before we leave San Francisco? what do we do if we screw up, because being stupid Americans who are used to docking in between fingers or at an end tie at the very least, we will… OMG OMG OMG.
Not to worry: all the harbors we saw have it down to a system that is as easy as it gets. You motor slowly in; there is a Harbor Guy on the quay waving you to the space he wants you to back to, and in some cases, a second Harbor Guy in a RIB ready to assist from the water. You back to the quay with your windward stern line pre-set; hand it to the shoreside Harbor Guy, who loops it through a ring and gives it back to you to cleat off. Then he hands you a small line which, wonder of wonders, is attached to a laid mooring line which you pull up from the water as you walk forward: snug it up and cleat off at the bow. Snug up another stern line to leeward, set the gangplank and bingo, you’re done. This is easy!! Laid lines are undoubtedly a lot easier for the Harbor Guys too, because it eliminates the possibility of boaters crossing their anchor lines, with the resulting next-morning departure snafus.
We hadn’t planned to stay here more than one night, but Komiža is delightful, lots to do and see here. Plenty of nice restaurants and cafés; a great little beach within walking distance; scooters to rent to tool around the island on. And just hanging out on the quay is a hoot!
One of the beaches in Komiža.
The city quay is kind of like a campground in its relaxed friendliness, and a lot like the UN — our next-door neighbors were Norwegians, Italians, Aussies, Germans, Swedes, Brits; a rotating cast of characters with new stories to tell every evening. A people-watching gold mine! Med mooring isn’t as cheap as anchoring out, but it comes with two advantages: all the fresh water you want (showers in the head for everybody!), and power for the onboard AC — which in this heat is huge. When we realized that we could crank up the AC and sleep in comfort all night, top up the water tanks in every harbor, we decided that Med mooring was the only way to go.
On the quay at Komiža. The Harbor Guys squeezed in another boat to starboard.
It was in Komiža that we got to try the Dalmatian specialty, peka — lamb or other meats, potatoes, carrots, onions, zucchini, drizzled with olive oil and cooked in a covered iron pot on a bed of coals, with coals piled on the lid as well. Not something I would normally think to order on a hot summer night; and you had to call the restaurant at least 3 hours ahead, as it takes every bit of that time to cook it properly. But after we had placed our order of grilled lamb chops on a waterfront patio one evening, the waiter came back to our table and asked if we would like to switch to lamb peka, as they had an order ready to serve that had been cancelled. Sure, why not? And all I can say is… if you get the chance, order it, no matter how hot the weather. Fabulous! We also had blitva — Swiss chard sautéed with potatoes, garlic & olive oil. Also wonderful, I will have to look for a good recipe when I get home. Local cheese drizzled with honey to start (gotta remember that too); house-made blackberry liqueur as a digestif… I could so get used to this.
Days 5 & 6: the quay at Stari Grad, island of Hvar: 43° 11′ 3.10″ N, 16° 35′ 34.19″ E
After a couple of days and nights enjoying the food, the beaches and the atmosphere at Komiža, it was time to move on. First up, the famous Blue Cave on the island of Biševo. We had stopped by there on the way to Komiža two days before, but the crowds on shore and the jam-packed mooring field made us think that early morning was a better choice. Especially since, if you get there early enough, you can go inside in your own dink instead of having to pay for the privilege of riding in a boat operated by a tour company. Heh heh.
After our early visit to the Blue Cave, we headed northeast to the island of Hvar. The town of Hvar, which from everything we’ve read is Party Central, didn’t call to us, but Stari Grad did: deep inside a well-protected inlet, with plenty of quay to tie up to. We were slightly disappointed in our first glimpse of the too-new waterfront — “Croatia as interpreted by Disneyland,” said Rory — but a short walk away from the quay led us into a maze of narrow alleyways, just like you would hope to see in one of the oldest cities in Europe. As for the newness around the edges of town: the bunkers lurking in the hills were all the explanation we needed. Yikes…
Stari Grad, island of Hvar.
We stayed here for two nights as well, but not for lack of trying to go elsewhere. After the first night we headed north to the island of Brač, where there were dozens of little bays to duck into, and a hillside monastery that Craig and France wanted to visit. We found a tiny bay all right, perfect for lunch and a swim; but the idea of climbing these arid hills on a hot, still afternoon was — waitasec, I see stormclouds forming at the eastern end of Brač, and ominous rumbles of thunder. Is it headed our way?
After a few flashes from the darkening sky, we decided that rather than searching for a safe place to wait it out on Brač, our best choice was to head to a known harbor; so we dashed back south to Stari Grad. A good thing, too: what had been a very light breeze ramped up to strong gusts and a spattering of rain, and suddenly we were on an overpowered boat. Reef the main! furl the jib!! It was with relief that we tied back up to the city quay. That was exciting… so, who’s up for a restaurant and a ramble through town?
Day 7: Stari Grad to Marina: 43° 30′ 45.59″ N, 16° 6′ 55.74″ E
The thunderstorm of the day before was long gone leaving very light winds, so we had to motor most of the way; but we had enough time to fit in a stop at Nečujam Bay on the north side of the island of Šolta, for lunch and a good long swim in this amazing water. Didn’t want to climb back on board… But we followed the fleet back to base, and finished our Croatian cruise by nailingthe Med moor at Marina Agana. Hah!
* * *
Travel notes: Midsummer in Croatia is hot. Really hot. Our ‘travel clothes’ — pants with zip-off legs, polo shirts, teeshirts, all made of fast-drying synthetics — never got worn. Cotton and rayon were the only bearable fabrics when we weren’t swimming. No worries about stuff not drying; it was so hot that anything pinned to the lifelines was dry by nightfall.
Water shoes are essential. A sandy beach is a rarity, rounded pebbles are a gift, rough rocks are the norm. With or without sharp or squishy marine life attached. After a couple of days of fighting with flip-flops that wanted to float right off my feet, I bought water shoes from a street vendor. Classic Crocs did the trick for Rory.
A typical Croatian beach: lots of bathing beauties, but no sand.
Most bays you will anchor fairly close in, as the depth drops off rapidly from shore. Little to no tidal currents in the Adriatic; recommended scope was 3:1 of the all-chain rode. We generally did not have a problem with holding, but on this rocky bottom we made a point of diving the anchor every time it was deployed. The only issue we had with any of our day anchorages was crowding — as much as you might want to check out what’s on shore, sometimes you have to accept the fact that there isn’t enough room to anchor safely.
If you want to tie up to the city quay, show up early and secure a spot well before sundown. By late afternoon, it became a bit of a circus to watch boats come into harbor and circle looking for a spot; and watch the Harbor Guys scramble to squeeze in as many boats as they could.
Equipment: If you want to get a good look at anything, bring your own binoculars — the ones on board are completely useless. Other than that, the boats were very well equipped. The cruisers’ guide 777 Harbours and Anchorages, which covers the coasts of Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro and Albania, was tucked into the nav station along with local charts; an excellent resource. No cockpit grills in Moorings’ Croatia fleet, but one much-appreciated luxury was the portable ice maker: once we decided to spend our nights on a quay, it was in constant use.
Except for toothpaste, sunscreen, the bar of body soap/shampoo that goes everywhere with us and REI’s indispensable jungle juice (98% DEET), we are coming around to packing minimal toiletries and buying as we go. Easier to lug around in general, easier to go through airport security, and there are plenty of little stores that are happy to sell you whatever you need.
All in all, Croatia was a welcome surprise: friendly people, excellent food, and hundreds of places to explore on and off the water. We barely made a dent in the Dalmatian islands; and were nowhere near Dubrovnik and the charter bases at the southernmost tip of Croatia… Many more adventures to look forward to in this part of the world!
